Is it above or below the white metal plate? Is knocking on it an option of checking if it's the problem, I mean is it worth trying?
Old Remeha Calenta 40L - no heating
Klusidee
If I'm getting a small stream of water when I remove the front plug - does it mean the valve is working okay in this precise moment, or is it not that simple?
One other thought I had - could it not be a "software" bug, like a bug in optimization of power consumption or some smart pre-warm logics? Just realized that it usually works in the morning, stops working around 15-17h, and for example, yesterday night the hot water I was getting was not too hot, while this morning, without restarting the boiler, or knocking on the valve - the water was steaming hot. Although, it could also be hardware getting too hot or something like that (I did turn the hot water off for the night in the boiler settings).
So it worked flawlessly for 6 days in a row (except for two E36 cases that popped up within an hour during a very strong wind, never seen them before or after): normal heating, perfectly hot water (although yesterday night at start the shower felt slightly hotter than at finish, but I did get hot tap water after that), and this morning the heating started, worked for about two hours and then we noticed no flame icon while the radiator icon was on. The radiators themselves were still warm (not hot), as was the pipe going out of the boiler, but the status was already st:8 su:0. The hot water pump felt like working (very subtle vibration on the touch). I tried knocking on the valve and restarting the boiler with no effect. Setting hot water temperature to OFF immediately changed the status and made the outgoing heating pipe hot.
Is the valve our last guess? Can you tell something by the looks of it or is it just replace and check?
In terms of removing it, can I just turn the boiler off, shut the cold water off for the whole apartment and wait until I get no hot or cold water from the tap? Or is there still risk of having (hot or not that hot) water inside?
As to eco mode, I've only found it in boiler parameters and the value is something like "set by thermostat". On the iSense settings under "Warmwater" warmhouden = continu aan, but it's not that, is it?
Thanks
It happened again last night, water from the hot tap was cold. When I removed the pump plug, I did get a small stream of water out of it, but the stream was cold, while the rubber pipes inside the boiler were very hot. Does prove that the valve is to blame or can it still be the pump?
Controleer nou eens de pomp als je geen warmwater hebt. Op dat moment de messing schroef uit de pomp draaien en een platte schroevendraaier er in steken, als de pomp draait zal hij de schroevendraaier afstoten of gaan ratelen, staat de pomp stil zal je met de schroevendraaier een sleuf in de pomp as vinden, hiermee kan je de pomp aanzwengelen. Als de pomp stil staat is hij defect, als hij draait op het moment dat je geen warmwater hebt, heb je een ander flow probleem dat kan de keerklep zijn.
Thanks, I did remove the central plug when there was no hot water and the pump was rotating. Actually I did it twice in different days, and both times it was rotating. What looked strange was that the water that was coming out of the pipe with the plug removed was cold while all the rubber pipes above were very hot.
Happy New Year!
I contacted the company whose maintenance sticker from April was left on the boiler, they answered after a week and quoted 225 Eur just for the first visit to analyze the problem. Is this a reasonable price?
Hello again. By keerklep, do you mean the 3-way valve or something else? I am looking at the parts chart, and the only valve I see above the hot water pump seems to be the 3-way valve 5002. Do you think it is the reason or is it something else?
The boiler now works in the following mode. If hot water is off on the boiler - everything is fine, heating is great. If hot water is on, it tries heating it for a few seconds in Status 3 or 4, Sub-status 31 Begrensde temperatuurregeling (ΔT beveiliging), then switches to Status 5 Branderstop Sub-status 41 Naventileren, and then to Status 8 Regelstop Sub-status 0 Wacht op branderstart. After a lot of attempts t3 value reaches 65 degrees (the setting for the hot water temp), and the boiler starts working normally for heating, until we use some of the hot water ant t3 gets lower.
Thanks! It's the one over which the temperature sensor is, isn't it? Would you recommend changing anything else like 5065 too (as there are signs of leakage, but very old ones, I haven't seen it leak there, but probably it makes sense to avoid doing it twice)? And I won't get away with just unscrewing the two 5077, one above and one below, 5007 and 5004 will need to be removed first, correct?
5065 uiteraard ook vervangen. Cv en sww aftappen maken, rechter schroef van 5001 losdraaien en 5001 naar achter drukken. Zo krijgt de boiler lucht en kan deze helemaal leeglopen via 5069. Als boiler leeg is, pas op water is heet en elektronica in de buurt, dan 5077 losdraaien, pomp verwijderen. Controleer door middel van vinger in 5067 te steken en keerklep omhoog te drukken dat de boiler echt leeg is!! U beugel uit 5007 trekken, dan kan 5067 verwijderd worden. Is lastig klusje als je het nog nooit gedaan hebt.
Many thanks for detailed instructions! It's now getting warmer so it's a better time to try this.
I've taken a look at the boiler itself, and the most difficult part seems to be loosening 5001. Won't opening the air valves of one of both radiators that are above the boiler help add air into the system without touching 5001?
I was also thinking of buying another used boiler of the same type (seeing a few around 100 Eur on marktplaats, sellers claim very good condition) for training and parts purposes, but it'll only make sense if it's reasonable to replace 5067 with a used one, which I'm not sure.
